Monday, October 20, 2008

September 17, 2008

On Tuesday, September 16, we packed up and got ready to leave Waterloo and head for Koblenz by way of Liege, Spa, Recht, Sankt-Vith, Prum, Gerolstein, and Mayen. A group of friends from our Yacht Club were taking a river boat cruise on the Rhine and we planned to meet them on the 18th in Koblenz.
On the way out of Waterloo, we stopped by the site where 300,000 men did battle that led to the downfall of Napoleon. We found swords had literally been traded for plowshares. Most of the land had been returned to agriculture and all that was left to commemorate the losses was a large mound of dirt. Wars – what a waste!
We had planned to stay in Liege, Belgium but when we got there, the city was large and didn’t look very appealing so we decided to go on to Spa, a resort town centered literally around a large natural spa! We’re glad we did because we found a fantastic B & B. When we called to get directions, Robert, the owner said he would send his son to show us the way. The house, like the owner’s hospitality was like an American antebellum, southern plantation home with high ceilings and large rooms (unlike the postage stamp rooms up til now). We could have stayed there a lot longer but couldn’t convince the owners they should adopt another set of parents.
In the morning we continued on to Koblenz with a side trip SW of “Recht” to “Poteau, Belgium”, another battle field site, this time it’s WWII, Battle of the Bulge. The end results were the same. Nature reclaimed the ravaged landscape and all that remains is an underfunded museum with old military surplus equipment attempting to immortalize wasted resources.
While we were in the area we stopped in the picturesque town of “Vielsalm” on a lake for morning coffee. This time it wasn’t McDonald’s, but a pleasant café at the lake resort!
We drove on to Koblenz in sunshine, pleasant temperatures, a high of 18 C (64 F), through hilly, and mostly agricultural countryside. We entered Germany and found the Autobahn an interesting road to travel. I would see a car coming up in the rear view mirror, way behind, and tell Dorothea to try and get a video clip of their speed. By the time she turned on the camera and started the video, the car would pass and be a ¼ mile ahead. We were doing 130 kph and they would pass us going 45 to 50 mph faster. That’s about 210 kph.
We arrived in “Koblenz” around 4:00 pm and went through our normal routine of looking for a room for the night. We found a nice little hotel with a restaurant on the East side of the Rhine that had one room left. We got to our room, freshened up, had a little wine and cheese and headed downstairs for dinner.
It was a small dining room with another couple and also two separate single guys. All spoke a little English and we had an enjoyable time chatting with all of them. When we asked for a menu, we found out there was only one choice. The waitress who didn’t speak any English tried to describe the dish but only in German. No problem! Our new found friends offered to interpret but all we got was that the meat was oxen. As we seemed a little hesitant, one of the single guys finally said that it was the part of the male oxen that could not make the female oxen happy. Having read that Europeans eat all parts of the animals, that explanation conjured up images in my mind that I didn’t want to think about at dinner time. When the dish arrived, it didn’t look like a normal piece of beef, it didn’t have the consistency of beef and it didn’t taste like beef. Sometimes in emergencies, stored snacks serve one well!
The next day we had a great dinner with Constance & Bill Robison in old town Koblenz. We were invited to a delightful breakfast on their luxurious cruise ship the next morning and were glad to see several YC friends. It’s truly a small world! And they speak English! What a treat after 3 weeks of French!

Look for associated photo link we'll send via email.

Ed & Dorothea

Monday, October 13, 2008

October 12, 2008 Update

It’s been almost a month since we composed our last update. We were in Koblenz, Germany, when our laptop’s charging circuit on the main mother board failed. The computer works but it won’t work on external power or charge the batteries. The laptop is 7 or 8 years old and before we left, we considered getting a new one but decided against it thinking if it there was a theft, the thief could have the old one and our insurance company could buy us a new one. So, in preparation for the worse, I backed up and removed all of the personal information, bought a spare battery as well as an extra AC power supply which is now 8 extra pounds of worthless luggage. This trip is a lot like cruising, you never have the right spare parts.

After two weeks of having to jump through hoops to get an order processed and a lot of help from Dorothea’s sister, we now have a new Dell Vostro 1710 Laptop. The old one of 22 pounds is still with me but I have been leaving it on top of the car wherever we stop.

We will be trying to catch up on correspondence as well as other computer based business as we continue our adventure.

We’re currently in Salzburg and will be heading toward Vienna tomorrow. Along the way we’ll work on getting caught up with publishing notes of our trip.

Ed & Dorothea

September 16, 2008

Finally, we picked up our own wheels and once again we’re free. Free, free, free at last! Which brings up an interesting point. When we were in London, we were talking to a local who told us they’re not required to carry any form of ID. No driver’s license, social security, proof of insurance or anything. They said attempts had been made to change that but it was resisted because it was considered to be an infringement on personal liberties. Imagine that, our forefathers left Europe in search of life liberty and the pursuit of happiness only to evolve to a point where we now have less personal freedom than those back where we came from. Irony!

Since Pope Benedict was still in Paris and scheduled to speak at Notre Dame on Friday night, we decided on our way back to the hotel to try and get away from all of the congestion and head for the “Right” bank, (north of the Seine River) to find a nice quite place for dinner. Think again Sherlock! I’ve driven in New York, Chicago and L.A. all of which pales in comparison to driving with Parisians. (I have to say Ed’s driving is stupendous! dz.) The people in the cars are nuts but predictable. Can’t say the same about the hot shots (male and female) on the “Crotch Rockets” who are maniacs and bent on suicide. They’re allowed to weave between, in front of and around cars and generally go anywhere they feel like going. And, since they comprise about 10% of the vehicles it’s not something you can ignore. Change lanes without looking and you’ve added a new appendage to your car. After an hour and 20 miles north of the river, there was no change in congestion. So, needing a break from the dodge-em cars routine, we eventually came upon an upscale area just north of the Louve. We parked the car and walked some of the back streets looking for romantic Paris. We found Le Treilhard Brasserie and after dinner, stopped at a local market and bought a bottle of French wine for 2.49 Euro. I think I’m going to like France!

Early Saturday, we headed north to the Champagne region. Along the way, I had to stop for a cup of coffee and other necessities and much to Dorothea’s chagrin stopped at a McDonald’s. The coffee was good but no “Egg-McMuffins.” None-the-less, while we were there, we planned our route to the Champagne Country and Epernay, the home of Moet et Chandon and Dom Perignon. When we got there we found we were a couple of weeks early for the harvest and only tours of the cellars and not the processing facilities were available. No matter, a glass of Brut Imperial made up for it.

We had planned to stay in Epernay but when we called, everything was booked. So north we went to Reims and then to Rethel. About 10:00 p.m. and not having much luck in finding a room we figured if we couldn’t sleep at least we could eat. We stopped at a small pizzeria and while talking with the proprietor told him of our search for a hotel. What resulted was somewhat typical of what we have found of all the French. Without being asked, he took the time to look up the phone numbers of the hotels in the area, brought his cell phone to our table and offered to call them and to lead us there in his car. It’s easy to understand generosity of the French underground to help so many Americans back to their lines during WWII. From what we have seen and experienced, the French are really friendly and go out of their way to help if treated with a little respect.

Sunday morning, the 14th. we headed to Belgium with a stop in Charleville for coffee and a scrumptious pastry filled with a peanut butter mouse (Heavenly! dz). From there we continued on and planned to stay outside of Brussels in Waterloo. Yep, the one in the same place where Napoleon met Wellington. We found a nice hotel/bed & breakfast in a residential area and set up camp for a couple of nights.

We made our way to Brussels via train, very easy and comfortable. The St. Michel’s Cathedral is beautiful. In doing some renovations they discovered very old artifacts which were on display. The Grand Place is huge, the gothic buildings are so ornate and the detail is unbelievable.

Our stint in the city was complete with seeing the original “Mannekin Pis” Statue, lunch in a local Brasserie followed by a Belgium waffle and depositing all of 20 Euros in a local Casino. We took the metro back to Waterloo in time for cocktails and dinner at a local restaurant recommended by our Inn-keeper. After ordering and receiving our order, I have never seen as pleading an expression on Dorothea’s face as when she looked at her entrée of “Filet Americana” and panicky said, “I don’t want to eat raw hamburger!!” Evidently, “Filet Americana” in Belgium means “Steak TarTar.”

View the associated pix in the photo album link sent in a separate email.

Ed and Dorothea

Monday, September 15, 2008

September 12, 2008










September 10, 2008

Wow, someone was sure looking out for us! The fire in the Chunnel between England and France was the day following our trip. If that fire had occurred immediately before or on the day we were traveling, we would have been in a Royale mess. We heard on the news it was going to take three days before the tunnel would be reopened. Three days with no accommodations and lugging around eight, 55 pound bags would not have been a pretty sight.

However, we made it just in time. The Euro Star station in London is modern and beautiful! Ed tried to take photos, but was promptly told no pictures were allowed and had to delete them. But, before getting caught, we had already taken two in the waiting lounge! The First Class accommodations in the station were quite comfortable. And, on the train, brunch and champagne made the trip go quickly. We really didn’t realize we had passed through the Chunnel until we were in France and checked GPS on the iPhone! It’s was a very quick trip. The countryside is mostly agriculture, but pleasant scenery.

When we arrived at the Paris, Gare du Nord train station, the waiting line for taxis looked like the ride queue for “Space Mountain.” Dorothea stood in line for the taxi while I, probably unnecessarily, watched our stuff. I doubt if any sensible thief would have risked a hernia trying to cart it off. Regardless, while standing there doing my duty, on three different times, gypsies (they didn’t actually have a sign saying they were gypsies but they did look the part), approached me asking if I could speak English. Responding, I replied with corresponding hand gesture, “Nien, Ich nich, sprecken Deutshe, verboten, verboten, nadda, nadda, vamoose!” They kind of looked at me quizzickly and left.

On the way to the hotel, we asked the taxi driver if he took British Sterling Pounds for payment. Emphatically, he said no. Having no other currency except credit cards, which were not accepted, I had to come up with a way to make payment. Thinking I had thought of everything by opening an HSBC Bank account before I left the States, I asked him to stop and wait while I made an Euro withdraw from one of the Paris branches. That’s when the fun began. I tried my brand new HSBC debit card and couldn’t get it to work. I went inside to get help which made things even more complicated. After about a half an hour of trying to communicate with the French Bank reps and my US rep, the taxi driver came in, visibly irritated, speaking a mile a minute in French, which I didn’t understand but knew he wasn’t too pleased with this American. He got in the middle of the discussions and things got deeper and deeper and I’m thinking, this cab fare is going cost more than our plane tickets. Finally, HSBC gave me a 100 Euro emergency advance and we were on our way.

Our Paris hotel, the Royal Cardinal, is located in the Latin Quarter, close to St. Germain, Notre Dame and is centralized for seeing many of the sites. But the hotel . . . built before Napoleon’s parents were born, well, it left something to be desired. Not anything close to the hotel in London, which was fabulous. Live and learn. But, the architectural sights and the whole Parisian atmosphere made it bearable. The buildings and statuary are truly amazing. The effort that went into creating both is beyond my imagination. Having designed many and built a few homes, it is truly remarkable what was done with limited knowledge and tools of 500 to 700 years ago.

We walked to Notre Dame – what a beautiful cathedral. Seeing it up close and personal is just jaw dropping. We were lucky enough to see a special video presentation in the cathedral at 9:00 pm which reviews the history of Notre Dame.

Brasseries are everywhere and as they say – wine truly is cheaper than water! Patisseries tempt you at every corner with their pastries, desserts and breads.

Ed and Dorothea

Thursday, September 11, 2008

September 10, 2008










September 9, 2008

Monday, the Queen Mum invited us over to her cottage to show us around and watch some of her boys come to work.











The process was preceded by a contingent of 12 Cavalrymen making their way through the streets of London. The mounted soldiers, in full dress regalia polished to a high sheen were quite a sight. They were 20 or 30 feet away from us and even though the riders were all young kids, as they came by, the collective group projected an aura of total superiority. It’s no wonder the use of the Calvary in warfare was so effective. I can not image the thoughts of adversaries on foot who stood before them with a sword or rifle in hand knowing they might be able to deliver a single blow before they were ground into the earth.

In a way, connecting with the affluence and pageantry of a monarch is a little hard for a liberal. But, contemplating the longevity of the British and their enormous contributions, it’s good to see them continue with traditions that give us a glimpse back in time.






Almost all of the English people we have encountered have been very nice. However, they don’t seem to be a patient lot. Getting them to explain something or clarify a point is mostly met with a noticeable disdain. None the less, we’re getting along with them quite well. That is except walking on the sidewalks. London is a very busy, multi-national town. The streets are always crowded with cars, buses, bikes and motorcycles and the sidewalks filled with people that could pass for a United Nations Convention. As such, the pedestrians don’t always follow a set traffic pattern. It seems most of the local English want to walk on the left side just as they drive. You can tell who they are because they oppose our direction on the right side and do not freely yield. We keep getting these stares, like, “… what the hell is wrong with you, get to the left.”

Also, all the drivers are preparing for a spot on a LeMann’s race team which makes crossing the streets a real adrenalin rush, especially when you’re accustomed to looking left before you cross. On more than one occasion, I’ve looked left, saw there was no traffic, took a step off of the curb and, …woosh, I’m almost wearing a coat of paint from a passing BMW. Between my peripheral vision and Dorothea’s tugs, I’ve been saved. But, Dorothea has said as long as we are in London she doesn’t want to walk on my right side any longer.

In addition to getting around on the “Tube” and double-decker busses, we did a LOT of walking. So, today we are nursing our blisters and bruised shins and making an effort to adjust to the time change. We had a nice lunch today, a “Ploughman’s Lunch” in a unique establishment called a “Whole Foods Food Hall.” So much food, so little time.

Wednesday, we take the “EuroStar” through the Chunnel under the channel to Paris. Once again, we will be contributing to the cabby’s, porters and bell hops welfare. Soon, we will be stopping long enough so our average daily budget can catch up and we can eat something besides the crackers we brought.

Queen Mum has a spectacular place! As she is gone for the summer, she allows you to visit her home. I personally love her gaudy taste – gold, gold and more gold! The ballroom set for a state dinner for 150 was spectacular. They measure the distance of the plates to the edge of the table to make sure everything is perfectly aligned. From what we saw, we have a few ideas to pass along to Jake our Club manager.

During our walk, we had to stop and visit Harrod’s. Although it is characterized as a tourist type department store, I am still totally enthralled with this huge store – it literally has everything - and in such luxurious settings. I really could spend a whole day there. Since I was there last – a long time ago- they have added a Food Hall, which seems to be a very popular food shopping concept here. Wow! Two floors of cheeses, meats, pastries, breads, seafood, candy, etc. along with many small food bars to sit and eat while shopping. Spectacular!

Lunch at heralded “The Wolseley” in Picadilly was less than great, food was good (expensive) with a “cover” charge (no entertainment, except the patrons), and wait staff is quite snobby as reviews often note.

Can’t wait for our trip to Paris tomorrow morning.

Cheers – off to dinner!

Dorothea and Ed

Sunday, September 7, 2008

Photos





























We MADE it!!!!















Wow!

Finally, after a loooooooonnnnnnnnngggggggg planning time, it's Sunday evening and we are sitting in London!

On Saturday, Sep. 6th, our departure date, we got up at 5:30 am to finish our last minute preparations. We made reservations for an airport shuttle to pick us up at 9:45. We literally worked double time from 5:30 until the van arrived at 9:40. All throughout our planning process we made a lot of progress in accomplishing goals and objectives. However, being totally ready was determined in the last few minutes. The last, final tick of the clock decided for us that we were totally ready, whether we wanted to be or not.

We went out earlier today to explore the Kensington area where we are staying. Other than that we haven't done much. We've been gone about 26 hours are making a good start at contributing to the financial welfare of travel related personnel such as shuttle companies, skycaps, porters, cabby's, and bellmen.

While waiting for the Gatwich Express to take us to Victoria Station, we noticed one of London's Public Works Projetcs. Since at lot of Bostonians hail from England, I now know why Boston's "Great Dig" took so long. If you'll notice in the photo we took, those are plants growing in that temporary overhead debris barrier.

The Delta flight over was great. Dorothea, in her incredible way had the foresight to upgrade us to 1st class. What a difference!! If it wasn't for a few of our fellow passengers, who evidently were traveling to Europe in search of a cure of their flatulence, the flight would have been perfect.

Ed

During our walk we noticed cars park both ways on the street, but what really caught our eye was this cute little car - and we hope the car we are buying in Paris is bigger than this! All the bellhops, porters, etc. wondered if we were moving over here with all of the luggage we have!

Tomorrow's plans include viewing the Changing of the Guard and a tour of Buckingham Palace, strolling through Kensington Gardens and Hyde Park and finding a great place to have fish and chips! But for now it's good night - - the time change and little sleep has caught up with me!

Dorothea
p.s.
See photos in next "Post" until we get this figured out.