September 25, 2008

Continuing our drive along the Romantic Road admiring the spectacular fall colors of the hardwood trees (some had an iridescent red we had not seen in the States) we stopped just outside of Steingaden to visit a Pilgrimage Church called the “Flagellaged Saviour in the Meadow”or Weiss Church. It was just beautiful. Although there was a service going on, the many visitors were tolerated and we were able to admire the creativity and ingenuity of artist, architects and builders from the 1800’s. On another historical note, while strolling the meadow path, it was here we discovered German cows actually wear cow bells around their neck!

When we got to Fussen, as usual we drove around to get the lay of the land and look for signs advertising Zimmer Frei or Gasthauses. The B & B, Haus am Forggensee was just outside of town at the base of the Alps and had a room available. Even though it was overcast with clouds in the mountain tops, the view from our room was spectacular. While we sat there admiring the scenery from our balcony, the cool mountain air mysteriously caused a bottle of wine to evaporate. Directly across the street from our B & B was an upscale resort and spa on Lake Forggensee. The rooms were 250+ Euros/night which explains why we were at the B & B and not there! However, undaunted (vino has many powers), we decided to explore the resort and see what made it so special. While wandering around trying to look like we belonged there we got lost and somehow ended up right in the middle of their candle-lit, formal dining room in the jeans we had had on all day, looking like we were dragged in from the cold (it was). The maitre d’ came over to us and asked if we wanted a table for two. So, what do you say with everyone watching and trying to figure out what language you’re speaking; “No thanks, we’re from the B & B across the street and we’re just snooping around.” We stayed for dinner, had fun with the waiter and enjoyed the company of a young couple next to us who spoke fluent english.

So, managing to leave in good graces with everyone, we spent the evening in our humble B & B with Heidi our host and had breakfast in morning. All along the Romantic Road all of our accommodations have included breakfast. Well sort of. Breakfast over here is a bologna, ham or cheese sandwich. Fruits, packaged cheese spread, crackers and other miscellaneous “goodies” adorn the little buffet tables (but nothing Ed really wanted to eat at 7:30 am). We found since no one really watched over these items, we could, discretely take a few of them with us for emergency road rations. Last year when we were leaving the Marathon Yacht Club (Florida), a power boater told us, “… sailors have to be watched because they’ll take anything that isn’t locked up.” Well, Heidi must have known we were sailors because she made sure there would be no free road “goodies” for us that morning.

Our itinerary for the day in Fussen was to tour King Ludwig’s two famous castles, Hohenschwangau and Neuschwanstein. Both were spectacular and Neuschwanstein (construction started in 1869) supposedly was the inspiration for Walt Disney’s Cinderella Castle. It also was the hardest to get to. To reach the castle, we had to walk about 45 minutes up a steep incline and stop numerous times to take pictures and more importantly to catch our breath. For a couple of “flatlanders, it was tough; but seeing the castle was really worth the trek. It truly is a fairy tale castle built by a troubled, very young king (who had problems not much different than today’s everyday life struggles) with an intriguing story.

After touring the castles, we headed to Murnau to check into what was going to be our home for the next three weeks. It was a good thing too, because after being on the road for 3 weeks, there was no more room in the car for one more laundry bags. They were starting to fall out when we opened the doors to get the luggage out for a night’s stay. In spite of what the guide books say, there are no self service laundries in France, Belgium or Germany.

We checked into the apartment late in the afternoon, found a place for all of our stuff, re-arranged the furniture and headed to the local convenience store to pick up a few groceries until our planned shopping trip on Saturday. This 1 bedroom, 1 bath with a combined kitchen, dining and living room unit probably will not serve as the model we’ll use when we decide to downsize!

We did most of our shopping on Saturday at one of the largest markets in the area (about the size of one of our large CVS or Walgreens pharmacies). They do not have anything that resembles a Publix and for sure there is not one on every corner. It took a long, long time to figure things out but we did learn a lot about local customs. Paper napkins are not used, saltine crackers don’t exist, canned vegetables are few and far between, beef is very limited and while pork is supposed to be plentiful, the cuts are not from the prime sections. Evidently, bacon, Jimmy Dean sausage or waffles, Orville Redenbacher popcorn, potato chips were never introduced in Germany or if they were they were not well received! While most of the countryside is used to raise dairy cows, based on what’s available on the store’s shelves, milk apparently is not consumed in large quantities. People seem to drink the unrefrigerated milk in cartons and not fresh milk. Sodas are scare but .5 Liters of beer come in a case of 15 for 12 euro or $15 (plus deposit) and wine averages 2.75 euro per .75 Liter or $3.25 (at an exchange rate of 1.4). In addition to what is and isn’t familiar in the market, the metric system is used to measure quantities. When we ordered 1 kilogram of bologna, the butcher in the deli looked astonished, holding his hands horizontally, about 18 inches apart, he quizzically asked; Ya? We quickly learned a kilogram is roughly 2 pounds so we adjusted our request to 100 grams. We couldn’t understand exactly what the butcher said but it sounded a lot like “Amerikaner dumkoff”.

On Sunday, we planned to make a quick trip to pick up a few previously unfound grocery items only to find everything was closed. Instead we found Murnau was having a Street Festival which sounded like a good way to celebrate our arrival. That evening at the festival, a Blues group by the name of “Williams Wetsox” was the headliner. They were singing blues in German and their music sounded great. So good in fact, I had to buy one of their CDs. Dorothea says they can’t sing and true they may not be Jimmy Hendricks but to a blues fan, they have an intriguing sound and they made the party groove.

Look for a link in our separate email to the associated photos. You'll have to wait until the next group of photos to see "Williams Wetsox". The group's photo is on my IPhone and I haven't yet loaded Itunes on our new pc.

We would like to thank all of our friends who provided us with information, books and hints on where to go and what to see. All of the information has been extremely informative and has helped to make our adventure all the more pleasurable. Also, thanks to all of those back home who continue to help us realize a dream by taking care of those everyday that always need attention.

Ed and Dorothea